Nissan 2009 gtr navigation iso download






















Why should you update your navigation system? It will help you save time by providing the best possible route. Money saved at the pump by utilizing the most efficient routes to your destinations. You will also get the latest in points of interest such as gas stations, restaurants, hotels, parks and much more. Have more questions? Click here , select your make and model to access the official Nissan FAQ site about your navigation system.

Reviews from other customers using the Nissan Navigation system are below. Does Australian unit look same? Other way you should change both control panels. KIT with Australian maps will cost more. Here is option new Nissan GTR navigations -. Did you ship my order yet?!!? Looks like the ad is down on eBay; only one up there now is for an Infiniti non-nav to nav conversion In for the feedback on the kit when it arrives One has to send money to Lituania and then wait for product to shop up and hopefully work.

Thanks for taking one for the team here If it works out I'll buy one too. Regular updates on progress and just got emailed a VERY detailed installation guide. Me thinks this is a scam! I hope I am wrong. Community Forum Software by IP. Sign In Create Account.

Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today! Javascript Disabled Detected You currently have javascript disabled. Posted 14 October - AM. Attached Images. Tim likes this. Album: legertas 18 images.

Remove the screws that hold the faceplate for the AV unit, 2 on top and The faceplate has the passenger seat airbag light.

This and making a speed by-pass signal is why I choose to have battery disconnected until everything is plugged back together. The face plate has a number of connectors, the simplest way to remove it is to turn the face plate over and disconnect one connector from the back of the faceplate G sensor and one from a harness above the AV unit as shown.

This allows removal of the faceplate. Finally remove the 4 screws holding the entire AV unit as shown. Note the AV Switcher unit that I have been using for the last 6 years activate front and rears cameras, I placed that strategically under the AV unit. My setup had no splices into existing cables, everything was plug and play. Use the release lock white lever to disengage the shift lock and move shifter to D.

Pull the AV unit half way out without over stretching any harness and disconnect the different connectors behind the AV unit. All the connectors behind the AV Unit. Time to remove the screen now.

This is also a little bit of a mission. They have to go in the order shown below to avoid damage. Remove the screws holding the entire screen and finisher bezel with nav switches. Turn the screen and bezel to face down and disconnect the connector behind the screen. Note the difference in gap of the stock screen and bezel.

Will need to modify the bezel later to make the new screen sit in a similar fashion. Left over harness. There is no need to remove the panel under the steering wheel if you are not putting in a front camera, or bypass switch etc. I did to rewire my by-pass switch and power to front camera. The panel under the steering wheel is simple to remove. Rove the side vent finisher. Pic Remove the 2 screws that hold the engine hood opener.

The finisher simply pops backwards away from firewall. If you plan on running a front camera then an idea for routing the camera can be read at my blog entry for my headlight swap; HERE. My front camera is stealthily behind the front bumper, but this did require removal of front bumper. Another option is to put the camera in front of the grill and running the cable the same way.

Andrejus awesome to conversion harness. Very professionally done. Complete with Power and AV for front camera. And finally per my request the vehicle speed by-pass signal tap. Remove the screws holding the plastic finisher and then the screws holding the screen metal brackets on each site.

But just in case you are curious this what it looks like. Notice the connector stayed the same but the pin outs are all actually different. The new screen has a massive heat sink in the back and also had a 4 pin digital video connector. Hence the need for the new harness. To make the new screen fit, which is a few mm bigger than the old screen the bezel need to be modified as such. Keep using a box cutter or xacto knoe to trim away at the tabs bit by bit and test fitting the new screen until you get a fit as close to the old screen as possible.

Remember not to get too greedy on this, there has to be a little gap between the screen and bezel in the front otherwise rubbing may occur. Finally give the 2 metal brackets screw holes a slight 1mm bend and that will allow for the screen to fit perfectly. Using a torx screwdriver transfer the LH and RH brackets over. Routing must be done carefully to avoid rubbing against metal. I ran it along with the old harness and zip tied it to the stock harness. One connector goes into the stock harness screen connectors and 2 connectors will plug into the screen.

Next its time to brush off those rust your puzzle making skills and connecting the male connectors on the new harness to the female connectors on the stock harness. A couple of connectors from the stock harness go to the new AV unit e.



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